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A Beginner's Guide to Mooring a Dinghy in Busy Harbours

Read the Harbour Before You Read Your Boat

Every harbour has its own habits, and the busy ones have several at once. A quiet Cornish cove behaves nothing like the crowded pontoons of a Solent marina on a summer Saturday, where ferries throw wash, day boats cut corners, and wind funnels between breakwaters in ways no forecast quite captures. Before you think about your own approach, give yourself five minutes of watching. Stand on the pontoon and study the water. Which way is the tide running? Where does the wash from passing traffic arrive, and how long after the vessel passes? Where does the wind actually come from, as opposed to what the flags suggest? Note which side of the pontoon the other dinghies lie. If a harbourmaster is about, ask which side they would prefer you to come alongside. It takes a moment and saves a great deal of embarrassment.

Rig Your Fenders and Lines Before You Enter the Fairway

Do the preparation out in open water, not in the middle of a channel with a ferry bearing down. A dinghy is light, so fenders need to sit low — roughly at gunwale height, where the hull will actually meet the pontoon, rather than up near the rubbing strake as you might set them on a larger boat. Two or three is usually plenty for a small craft: space them so there is a fender near the widest point of the hull and one aft.

Lines matter more. Lead your bow line and stern line outside everything — outside the shrouds, outside the pushpit, outside anything a line could catch on. Coil each one loosely and lay it on the foredeck and aft deck where you can reach it without letting go of the tiller or outboard. A line that is tidy on the outside of the boat is worth ten coiled neatly in a locker.

Brief your crew, even if it is one slightly reluctant teenager. Decide who takes the bow line, who takes the stern, and who holds the boathook. Clip your kill-cord to your wrist. Then go in.

The Approach: Slow, Angled, and Into the Wind

Approach at perhaps twenty to thirty degrees to the pontoon, not straight on. That angle lets you see where your bow is going, keeps the stern clear, and gives you the option of straightening up at the last moment. Come in at tick-over, using short bursts of ahead and plenty of neutral. Never approach faster than you are willing to hit something — a pontoon, a moored boat, or the harbour wall.

Crosswinds are what catch beginners out. A light dinghy has enormous windage for its weight, so a breeze across the harbour will push your bow off long before you reach the pontoon. If you can, approach into the wind; if you cannot, aim upwind of your chosen spot and let the wind bring you down onto it. Watch for the paddle-wheel effect too: an outboard in forward gear pushes the stern to starboard, which is worth knowing when you are slotting into a tight gap.

If it is not working — the angle is wrong, the wind has got you, a ferry is coming — go round again. Nobody on the pontoon will think less of you.

Coming Alongside: Fender First, Then Lines

Touch the pontoon with your fender, not your hull. That is the whole trick, and it is why you rigged them properly. As you come alongside, a crew member steps off with the bow line if the gap allows — never jump, and never put a hand or foot between the hull and the pontoon. Fingers and pilings do not mix.

Take the bow line first, then the stern. Once both are on, add a spring line from the bow back to a cleat amidships or aft, which stops the boat sliding forwards and backwards along the pontoon. Cleat it properly: a round turn and two half hitches, or a figure of eight finished with a locking turn. Then check your fenders have not popped up above the pontoon edge.

Springs, Tides, and Ferry Wash

If you are staying a while, think beyond the next ten minutes. In a harbour with a big tidal range, lines that are snug at high water will be bar-taut at low, and lines that are slack at low water will leave you hanging. Allow enough slack for the fall and rise, then check them again after an hour. Two springs — one leading forward, one leading aft — are far more effective than a single line pulled tight.

Ferry wash deserves respect. A passing ferry can send a surge through a harbour that lifts a small dinghy and slams it against the pontoon. Longer, springier lines absorb that motion better than short, tight ones. Keep your painter secured to a cleat rather than a railing, and avoid leaving a dinghy tied by a single line to a bollard when the wash is heavy.

Leaving Without Drama

Leaving is the approach in reverse, and it pays to be just as deliberate. Start with the spring — it is the line holding you in place — then the stern, then the bow. Walk the dinghy back gently rather than shoving off hard. Check the wind and tide once more before you commit: if the wind is holding you on, you will need a firm push and a confident burst of reverse to clear the pontoon.

Once clear, stow your fenders and coil your lines before you open the throttle. And take one last look over your shoulder. Busy harbours are busy for a reason — they are wonderful places to be — and a tidy, unhurried departure is the sort of thing other boaters notice and remember.

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5 Comments

  1. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

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    • John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

      I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

      Reply
      • Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

        I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

        Reply
  2. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

    Reply

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